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STANDARDS
Core Art Standards: VA3, VA9, VA10
CCSS: R2, R4, R10
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Pattern
How do fashion designers work with repetition and variation?
How does repetition help fashion designers convey ideas?
Kansai Yamamoto (1944-2020), ©Hiroshi Yoda, Model: Britt Magnusson, Makeup: Kawabe Sachiko, Fashion editor: Jillie Murphy, 1971 Harpers & Queen
How does Yamamoto play with the scale of the patterns he includes?
Paisley or polka dots, stripes or swirls. When it comes to fashion, patterns are everywhere. In design, a pattern is a series of repeated visual ideas, such as colors, textures, or shapes. Fashion designers use patterns for a variety of reasons: to give their garments energy and a sense of movement, to attract or distract the eye, to play with balance and symmetry, and to create emphasis. In some cases, patterns can even become associated with the fashion house that created them.
Patterns, like polka dots or stripes, are everywhere in fashion. A pattern is a series of repeated visual details, such as colors or shapes. Patterns give garments energy and a sense of movement. Patterns can also attract the eye to certain areas of the garment or create balance. In some cases, patterns represent the fashion house that created them.
More Is More
Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images
David Bowie in 1973
Kansai Yamamoto (kahn-sai yah-mah-mohtoh) is known for his design collaboration with musician David Bowie. Both believed in what Yamamoto described as “radical appearance,” which often included vibrant colors and large-scale proportions, such as oversized capes and voluminous pants. Yamamoto twisted and folded fabrics to give his garments a sculptural feel, like in the example above. Then he used patterns to emphasize the garment’s form. Yamamoto also believed in the Japanese concept of basara (bah-sah-rah), a maximalist, “more is more” approach. What patterns do you see in this example? How do they relate to the ensemble’s form?
Kansai Yamamoto (kahn-sai yah-mahmoh- toh) was a Japanese designer. He’s known for his work with musician David Bowie. Both artists were passionate about bright colors and clothes with large proportions, like oversized capes and puffy pants. Yamamoto twisted and folded fabrics to make his garments look like sculptures. Then he used patterns to emphasize the garment’s form. One example is shown above. Notice how the stripes make the cape stand out.
Viktor&Rolf, Van Gogh Girls, Look 14, Spring/Summer 2015. Catwalking/Getty Images
How does Viktor&Rolf use pattern to evoke art?
Inspired by Visual Art
To honor Dutch artist Vincent van Gogh on the 125th anniversary of his death, Viktor&Rolf released a collection they called Van Gogh Girls. The ruffled baby doll dress above features bold black outlines and pastel flowers. The designers introduce asymmetrical lines, with the fabric on the right extending away from the model’s body in diagonals. The models wear stalks of wheat—one of Van Gogh’s favorite subjects to paint—as hats. How do the designers use pattern to convey their ideas about Van Gogh? Does this garment remind you of his paintings?
Fashion house Viktor&Rolf honored Vincent van Gogh for the 125th anniversary of the Dutch artist’s death. Designers created a collection called Van Gogh Girls. The ruffled dress above features black outlines and pastel flowers. The model wears a hat made of wheat stalks—one of Van Gogh’s favorite subjects to paint. How does the pattern explore ideas about Van Gogh? Does this garment remind you of his paintings?
Gianni Versace (1946-1997). Spring Collection, 2018. Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
How do color and pattern unify this collection?
Repetition and Variation
For her 2018 spring collection, Donatella Versace paid tribute to her late brother, Gianni, who founded the Italian fashion house in 1978. The brand is known for its busy patterns, so Donatella combed Gianni’s archives for the most iconic examples. She selected swirling leaves, coins, animal prints, and crowns, like the examples above. Notice how the patterns transform depending on the garment. The models on the left and right wear the same pattern—one as a dress and the other as pants. By working this way, the designer plays with repetition and variation. Then black and gold create visual unity in the collection.
Italian designer Gianni Versace founded the fashion house Versace in 1978. After Gianni’s death, his sister Donatella paid tribute to him. She included his patterns of swirling leaves, animal prints, and crowns on garments in her spring 2018 collection, shown above. The models on the left and right wear the same pattern. It looks different on a dress than on pants. Donatella plays with repetition and variation. Black and gold create visual unity in the collection.
Burberry, February 2020 Collection. Estrop/Getty Images.
How do these runway looks demonstrate the versatility of Burberry’s classic pattern?
Brand Identity
Among the most famous patterns in the world, the Burberry check, or plaid, consists of interlocking lines against a brown background. The pattern was first introduced in the 1920s as a lining for raincoats. But it really took off in 1967 when it first appeared on luggage, umbrellas, and other accessories. Today, with some variation, such as larger or smaller stripes, the pattern appears on everything from scarves to strollers. It is an instantly recognizable visual identity for the company that was founded in 1856 by 21-year-old Thomas Burberry.
The plaid on the jackets above is the fashion brand Burberry’s signature pattern. It’s called the Burberry check. It features crossing lines on a brown background. Burberry introduced the pattern in the 1920s. Today the pattern appears on everything from scarves to strollers. There is some variation, such as larger or smaller stripes. The pattern, which is now iconic, has become the visual identity for the Burberry brand.
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