Materials

How do these designers look beyond fabric to create unique garments?

How do these fashion designers look beyond fabric?

Jan / Feb 2024

When you think of materials in fashion, you probably imagine the fabrics used in the clothes you wear every day, like cotton, wool, or denim. But fashion, like all visual art, can be made from anything. And that’s why many designers turn to unconventional materials to achieve one-of-a-kind silhouettes—or to make a statement.

What materials do you think are used in high fashion? You might picture the fabrics used in your own clothes, like cotton, wool, and denim. But many designers turn to unusual materials to create one-of-a-kind garments.

Listen and Learn

Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto (yoh-jee yah-mah-mohtoh) always lets materials guide his process. “Listen to the material,” he tells his patternmakers. “What is it going to say? Just wait. Probably the material will tell you something.” For the structured dress, above, from his fall/winter 1991-92 collection, Yamamoto built the bodice from geometric wood panels connected with bolts and hinges. The skirt is black felted wool overlaid with more wood panels. What do you think the wood “told” Yamamoto to inspire this design?

Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto (yoh-jee yahmah- moh-toh) lets materials guide him. “Listen to the material,” he says. “What is it going to say?” The dress above is from Yamamoto’s fall/winter 1991- 92 collection. He built the bodice, or top, from wood panels connected by bolts and hinges. The skirt is made of wool with wood panels on top. What do you think the wood “told” Yamamoto? How might it have inspired this design?

Fluttering Fit

American fashion designer Jeremy Scott has made clothing out of everything from plastic—like a dry cleaning bag dress—to car parts. From 2013 until March 2023, he was the creative director at Moschino (muh-SKEE-noh), an Italian fashion house. During his time there, he used a wide range of materials in playful designs. For the 2018 ostrich-feather and paper-butterfly ensemble above, Scott used wire to attach the butterflies to the garment. The wires allow the colorful imitation insects to move along with the dress, creating a kinetic effect that makes it look like the wearer is surrounded by fluttering butterflies. How might it feel to wear this ensemble?

Jeremy Scott is an American fashion designer. For 10 years, until March 2023, he was the creative director at the Italian fashion house Moschino (muh-SKEE-noh). Scott created playful designs from a wide range of materials. The 2018 look above is made from ostrich feathers and paper butterflies. Scott used wire to attach the butterflies to the garment. The paper insects move with the dress. This kinetic effect makes it look like the model is surrounded by fluttering butterflies.

Statement Piece

Sometimes materials can emphasize a designer’s— or wearer’s—ideas. Pop star Lady Gaga wore a dress made from an unconventional material to the 2010 MTV Video Music Awards: raw beef! Her creative team hired Argentinian designer Franc Fernandez to make the dress, which he stitched Gaga into backstage. He later said his family butcher recommended flank steak because it would be easy to sew. In an interview, Gaga explained, “If we don’t fight for our rights, pretty soon we’re going to have as much rights as the meat on our bones.” Do you think this look is an appropriate way to “beef” up Gaga’s statement?

Sometimes materials emphasize ideas. Pop star Lady Gaga wore the dress above to the MTV Video Music Awards in 2010. It’s made of a very unusual material: raw beef! Gaga hired Argentinian designer Franc Fernandez to make the dress. He had to stitch her into it backstage! Gaga wanted the “meat dress” to make a statement. “If we don’t fight for our rights, pretty soon we’re going to have as much rights as the meat on our bones,” she said. Do you think this look expressed her idea?

Design statements can also be more subtle than Gaga’s “meat dress,” as it’s often called. Belgian designer Martin Margiela (mahr-jee-EH-luh) unveiled a coat made of blonde wigs and hair extensions in his Maison Martin Margiela spring/summer 2009 collection, below. By using a cheap, repurposed material like synthetic hair, Margiela demonstrated that luxury is created through the craftsmanship and effort that go into making a garment, rather than just expensive or rare materials. Wigs also hold personal significance for Margiela, whose father was a hairdresser. Margiela has incorporated them into his designs throughout his career.

Belgian designer Martin Margiela (mahr-jee-EH-luh) presented a coat made of blonde wigs and hair extensions, above, in his spring/summer 2009 collection. Artificial hair isn’t very expensive. But Margiela’s craftsmanship makes the garment special. He shows that you don’t need expensive or rare materials to make high fashion. Wigs are meaningful to Margiela, whose father was a hairdresser. He’s included wigs in designs throughout his career.